Almost a day after Kanye West announced his ten-year deal with Gap, Black Twitter is calling out the fashion brand to also renew their partnership with designer Telfar Clemens.
Months before Kanye West announced his historic partnership with Gap and naming Nigerian designer Mowalola Ogunlesi as director of ‘Yeezy Gap’, Gap also secured a partnership with designer Telfar Clemens before the COVID-19 pandemic. As reported by the Business of Fashion, Telfar and his team did not receive any payment for the partnership along with Gap holding possession of his samples used in the collection. Additionally, Gap did not ask Telfar to sign a contract but reps from the company paid him a portion from the $100,000 design fee.
Accessibility. Democracy. Collaboration. Stay tuned. pic.twitter.com/3Io3qIpRoM
— Gap (@Gap) January 16, 2020
Black Twitter also noted that Gap can work with two Black designers and not only use one to fit their quota. Also that the situation should not put two Black creatives against each other due to their influence within the fashion industry.
Damn. We were suppose to get telfar x gap. And this makes it all a little bitter sweet. I feel like the fashion industry sort of makes it to where one black designer or creative can be at the top. When we all should win. And have multiple collections – like they do for others.
— Nandi (@itsnandibby) June 26, 2020
We can’t allow Gap’s response to this situation to be shaped as “Telfar vs. Yeezy”.
— AB/G (@bibbygregory) June 27, 2020
Why Gap thought two black creatives couldn’t co-exist? Telfar deserved that collab, Watch him bring it somewhere else tho he’s a New Yorker we sit still for nobody!
— GemsMuseum (@GemsMuseum) June 27, 2020
From a Telfar rep: not only was the brand never paid a postponement fee, but Gap also dropped communication. The team found out about Yeezy today like everyone else.
— Emilia Petrarca (@EmiliaPetrarca) June 26, 2020
Society has an issue with tokenizing black people. How is it that Telfar’s collab with GAP was “canceled due to COVID-19” but Kanye signs a 10 year deal? I know the answer to this question. Until the industry removes the idea that “there can only be one”. This will persist.
— MOGUL (@jaymesblond) June 26, 2020
Clemens launched his brand in 2004 after moving to New York City two years prior with his family. Initially, he pursued a career in modeling but decided to rework vintage clothing. His designs primarily focus on being inclusive as stated “It’s not for you-it’s for everyone.” He has collaborated with brands such as Reebok, American Apparel, and FILA along with winning $400,000 from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2017. His most infamous piece, “The Shopping Bag”, has become a staple piece for millennials due to its simplicity and unisex appeal.